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Folkflora

The quiet heritage of British wool

Britain is a place with an incredibly diverse sheep culture - dozens of different native breeds have developed here, each of which has been bred for a particular environment and purpose. In this week’s letter, I wanted to discuss this aspect of traditional England, Wales, and Scotland, as I think that it is incredibly important to understand the relationship between the crafter and the material they are working with.

Variants of wool in Britain

First, let me introduce you to the different breeds found in Britain. Wensleydale sheep, which live in the Yorkshire Dales, produce long, shiny, and curly wool that is great for weaving into garments. The Herdwick breed, which comes from the Lake District, is particularly hardy and thus could survive in the extremely harsh environment of the Lake District fells, but its wool is generally of a coarser grade, fit for carpet-making. This breed has been known to survive under a blanket of snow for three days while eating its own wool – I could definitely use some of this resilience in my daily life. Finally, the Jacob sheep, which have been around since the 16th century, have uniquely piebald wool that can be used to make two-colour garments without needing any dye.

The connections between sheep and their environment

Now, you may notice that each breed has been specifically connected to a particular landscape - and indeed, it is right there. Herdwick sheep were particularly hardy and could survive in the Lake District, which was known for being pretty hostile to agriculture, while Wensleydale sheep were generally better at milder climates suitable for farming. Thus, the connection between these animals and the land they grazed on was integral to their breeding and survival. If you know what to look for, you can see it in the materials as well - each type of wool has different qualities that can be used for different purposes.

Knitting and the history of household production in Britain

Finally, I think it is important to highlight the cultural significance of knitting and weaving in Britain, which is deeply tied to the country’s history. For much of the period prior to the Industrial Revolution, knitting was not a hobby but a vital source of income for many people, particularly in fishing and farming areas. It was common for whole families, including children, to knit constantly as a way to earn money, which is why some people have a very nostalgic view of handmade crafts. Knitting was exceptionally widespread there, and it was normal for people to make simple garments for themselves while they worked. Not to mention the craft’s role during World War II, but that’s a whole different post.

A note on the importance of materials and where they come from

In my opinion, it is important to highlight the connection between the maker and the material, particularly when it comes to traditional crafts and historic methods. If possible, it is always good to research the particular source of the material, whether it is a particular breed of sheep, like in Britain, or a factory that makes traditional wool products. It gives you a sense of connection and helps to understand the process and its history, which I think is essential to appreciate the work and the resulting product.

Finally, if you want to support British wool makers, many local producers and small businesses sell yarns made from the different breeds described above, so you may want to explore their offers if you are looking to buy wool. I, personally, got a sheep's worth of sheep’s fleece from a farmer in Wales for £5 – but you can buy the already prepared wool quite cheaply as well!

Speak soon,
Lorena

#fibrearts